2010-01-10 - Eat Magazine
By: Julie Pegg
Interview with Feenie about the Gold Medal Plates and the aftermath
Gold Medal Plate Awards
“I’m as jumpy as a cat in a room full of rocking chairs”, admits Rob Feenie. Feenie has graciously wedged me in between busy and nervous the morning of the Gold Plate Awards, to chat about his two-day challenge—comprised of three stressful competitions--a mystery wine pairing, an Black Box event a la Iron Chef, and a Grand Finale.
Weeks previously, Rob wowed the judges during the Vancouver heat with a winning duo-dish of Duck confit and boudin noir made of Chilliwack’s Polderside Farm chicken. Garnish of puréed fig bridged the meat with Road 13’s luscious Rhone-style white blend. Now he’s about to sweat it out against other Canadian chefs.
Feenie’s finale (riffs on his signature dishes) are a feather-light butternut squash ravioli, mascarpone and shaved black truffle along with a top Canadian prime, 36-hour slow-braised beef short rib napped with Vancouver Island chanterelles. Alas, they failed to garner the gold.
Fast-forward two weeks. Undaunted, a cheery, confident Rob rolls out a few gold nuggets for the media at the sexy Bentall Center Cactus Club with a few new dishes he plans to dole out in several locations.
Feenie’s creations clock in for about half the price you would pay for a local, sustainable, quality and delicious dish in a top-notch dining room. And you can wear your Levis. (Though I would suggest you refrain from the torn and tatty).
A splash of Hendrick’s Gin and crackly Parmesan crisp cranks good ole’ tomato soup way up. Rob’s signature ravioli meets tender/firm giant sautéed prawns on the new menu. Weight watchers won’t miss the calories in a delicate dish of marinated sablefish floating in a dashi broth alongside shiitakes, mushrooms and naturally buttery fingerling potatoes. Shiitakes reappear, with portabella, button and crimini cousins in Rob’s take on Hunter Chicken. Our Grande Finale is an “I’ll-just-have-one-more-bite” pumpkin sponge cake with milk chocolate mousse.
Medals or not, Feenie clearly delights in channeling his energy toward casual fine dining. Ergo, Vancouver diners love that he loves it; we get to enjoy RF “gold” plates at the Cactus Club as often as we want.